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This particular dish embodies everything that is delicious about a comforting bowl of pasta; flavor forward, unctuous & textural. As I take a moment to remember my line cook days as a pasta cook at the Lupa, a Roman style Trattoria in NYC, I'm taken back to the tight sizzle of the sausage as it’s pressed into a hot saute pan. The dull grinding sound of the metal pan sliding back and forth on a metal flat top, the “ka-thunk” of tongs sliding to rest on the oven door. The spoon chopping into the sausage, making bite size morsels while watching the fat & juices release and bubble together. The intense sound of the wilted chard bubbling to life in the hot pan, halting the sausages pursuit of caramelized perfection; the fat, the juices, the butter all jumping to life in the pan creating a harmonic symphony of sight and sound. It fades as quickly as it started, now resting and waiting to be joined by the pasta. Tossed together, cheese and drizzle of olive oil; creamy, fragrant, spicy, bold, ready to savor, walking out of the kitchen door- attention returning to the other sauces, to the other pastas boiling, awaiting their turn. Of all the sauces, this one, I remember most vividly.
Let's chat about good greens to use for this type of dish, all of these or similar types can be used and substituted as you prefer.
SPINACH: The best choice for something colorful and nutritious and gets you right to the finished dish as it wilts very quickly.
ARUGULA: Toss straight into the dish, though it won't wilt as much as the spinach. It provides a tasty pepperiness to the dish, and adds a pretty visual.
SWISS CHARD: The best choice for this dish, because you can cook the stems too. The leaf is tender and when it's completely braised, it still has an appealing subtle color to it. And it tastes really good too! You can make this ahead of time.
KALE: I prefer using Tuscan kale (Cavolo nero) as it is a tender type of kale. The regular ruffle green is fine too, but choose smaller leaf over larger leaf- it's less stringy. Kale tends to have a more pronounced bitter tone which is subdued as it braises, so it is a must braise for the best flavor. You can make this ahead of time.
Braising greens has two main benefits, though there are a couple more. First, it allows you to turn a firm green into something soft and tender which allows it to become part of the sauce and more than just an add-in. Second, it helps keep the fridge clean, like that bunch of kale that got purchased and then not used? Not saying we should let the greens just hang out forever, but it’s already a little wilty, finish the task and make it edible!
QUICK GREENS STYLE
Cut the greens into thinner pieces, and add a small pinch of salt, toss together and let sit for at least 5 to 10 minutes. Drain off any water before adding it to the sauce.
BRAISED GREENS STYLE
The only way to make this well, is to make enough at one time. There has to be enough in the pot to allow it to gently simmer for hours. Braising greens like kale or chard helps to remove the bitter flavor and tenderizes the greens, so it becomes a sauce and not just a part of the sauce.
Use stems from Swiss chard. Discard stems from kale.
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